Exfoliation and Corneotherapy: The Skin Science behind it.

By Maria Rylott-Byrd

In corneotherapy, we as corneotherapists would always question whether exfoliation is needed at all. Why? Because when the keratinocyte life cycle is functioning efficiently, there should be no need to exfoliate. The skin will naturally desquamate as part of its healthy renewal process.

If desquamation is not occurring, our first priority should not be to remove cells, but to restore homeostasis and support the skin in regaining its natural balance. However, if exfoliation is being considered, it’s essential to understand what we are actually trying to achieve and how each method impacts the skin barrier.

Keratolytic exfoliants, such as AHAs, work by dissolving the corneodesmosomes, the protein bonds that hold corneocytes (mature keratinocytes) together, whilst abrasive scrubs scratch away at the surface. These processes remove the so-called “dead” cells but can also disrupt cells that are not yet fully mature. As a result, the skin may be left in a stressed and vulnerable state.

It’s also important to recognise that this process affects more than just the surface. It influences the entire acid mantle, including the microbiome, stratum corneum and lipid bilayers, effectively disarming the skin’s first line of defence.

By contrast, proteolytic enzymes such as those sourced from papaya or pineapple work more gently, helping to soften and digest proteins without compromising the barrier function. That said, if the skin is already compromised, even enzymatic exfoliation is unlikely to be beneficial.

In true corneotherapeutic practice, our focus should always be focused on the skin science. By foocusing on supporting barrier recovery, optimising keratinocyte function, we allow the skin to do what it is designed to do, renew itself naturally!

Maria Rylott-Byrd aka The Corneotherapy Consultant™ is the creator of Epidermal Skin Health – A Corneotherapist’s Essential Guide, a comprehensive skin science-led course designed to deepen understanding and elevate professional expertise.